Artistic Indian Saree Weavers

Indian culture is so diverse that every region and every state has a culture and tradition of its own. Even in one single state different community follow different customs. Every region has it own cuisine, clothing, language, etc. Indian Arts and Crafts of each age reflect the culture, traditions and happenings of that particular era. Every age, every dynasty, every empire has its influence and essence in the crafts belonging to those times, therefore making India's heritage diverse and culturally rich. 

India is a hub for various dress attires. Among all the dress attires, I need to mention about saree because in India most of the women loves to wear sarees as their tradition. Moreover compare to all other dress attires, saree is only one lengthy material to wear and hard to prepare also. Every one knows about the varieties of sarees, which saree is suitable for particular occasion but most of the people don’t think how the sarees are manufactured, what is the difficulty behind the  manufacturing a sarees, how can get a colour full saree.

And thus, in this article I would like to reveal the importance of manufacturing a saree, the step by step procedure of saree manufacturing, what sort of problems are been faced by the weavers of  India.

Weaving:

Weaving is an ancient art of making cloth and other fabrics. Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing two sets of threads over and under each other. Weavers use threads spun from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon. But thin, narrow strips of almost any flexible material can be woven. People learned to weave thousands of years ago using natural grasses, leafstalks, palm leaves, and thin strips of wood.

The Indian hand woven fabrics have been famous all over the world since times immemorial. Weaving in Indian villages is considered one of the largest cottage industries. Different regions of India are famous for various kinds of weaving.

The villages of Tamil Nadu are famous for a special kind of weaving named Madras Checks.

The ikat fabrics are the pride of the villages of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa

 In the villages of Uttar Pradesh, the Brocades and jacquards are famous.

The villages of West Bengal are famous for weaving the fabrics like Daccai, Jamdani and Taant etc.

The villagers in Punjab are expert in weaving Phulkari.

The other famous weaving styles found in the villages of India include Chanderi pattern in Madhya Pradesh, Baluchar, Surat tanchoi, Benarasi, etc.

On the other hand, people in the villages of Jammu and Kashmir are involved in weaving the world famous Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls. The villages of India are famous all over the world for producing the famous fabrics like mulberry silk, tussar, eri and muga as well. 

Today weaving ranks as a major industry in many countries. Weaving is often completed on high speed looms. But weaving is not limited to cloth and textile products. Weaving plays an important part in the manufacture of screens, metal fences, and rubber tire cord.

Apart from weaving, people in the Indian villages are also involved in other occupations like dyeing, designing, etc. Weaving in Indian villages is one of those rare assets for which India can feel proud of.

Let us take a look into the world of saree dyeing.

Saree dyeing is just like dyeing other fabrics. Others dye the fibers and not the finished product. Firs of, the cloth or fabric used in saree dyeing should be washed properly leaving it despicably clean. This process is done to eliminate the impurities found in the fabric before we start our saree dyeing. This makes sure that the fabric is free of elements that make it harder for the dye or the color to be attached to the piece of cloth.

Since it is not natural for the fabric to have color, these colors can be washed off easily. So the next step in saree dyeing is to soak the fabric in a fixative that would make the color last and not washable. Vinegar and salt is a good combination for fixative. You can soak your fabric there before the saree dyeing commences.
Next step is to make your dye mixture. You may use natural dye or whatever type of dye you want. In this step, you need to make sure that you get your desired color. Follow instructions for artificial dyes. Then put it inside a pot that is mainly used for dyeing. Heat it up then add the fabric to the combination and make it stay under the fire for about 60 minutes. Check your piece in a 10 minute interval. Once you get the desired color then you can take it off the mixture. Bear in mind though that the color can be different when it is wet.
Weaver’s Problems:
The weavers are in this profession by tradition. The life of weavers is characterized by abject poverty, chronic malnutrition, varied health hazards and even hunger deaths and suicides. Input cost is unbearable for many and profit is taken by middlemen. Globalization has severely affected economically vulnerable small weavers pushing them below poverty line. State machinery is apathetic and whatever schemes and programmes exist, fail to do any good to weavers who are battling hard to keep this one of the finest legacies of Indian culture alive. Situation of women and children is worse. Women are engaged in mundane work of thread-cutting, zari-filling and the like and are paid merely Rs.10-15 per day for 12-16 hours of work. Children are denied schooling to speed up saree-production. Suggestive interventions are highlighted in the paper due to this many reasons upcoming generation are not at all interested to continue in this profession.

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